Nether Den

I enjoy making these guides and sharing my knowledge, and I would love to make more. I'm also keenly interested in making video versions. Please check out my campaign on Patreon if you'd like to help me achieve my goals:

Materials Needed:

  • raw resin-cast wolf teeth - mine are SmoothCast 300
  • a sanding tool to prep your teeth casts for painting - I use a Dremmel
  • acrylic paints - I use Golden brand
  • paint brushes (especially a small tip brush for detail work)
  • a cup of water
  • a palette
  • a basic knowledge of color mixing to obtain desired shades
  • clear gloss (shiny) acrylic sealer
  • reference image(s) - see below

    Here is a very good reference image showing the peach/pink base color and purple-ish mottling of the gums as well as the off-white teeth color.

    Step 1: Sanding & Smoothing

    These are the raw casts. Notice all of those icky edges. Those will need to be sanded, along with removing any bubbles of resin that come from air bubbles that were trapped in the original molding process (most often between the front teeth). Additionally, now is a good time to test fit the jawsets to the interior of your face blank and to sand down anywhere that prevents a 100% perfect fit. Even if you have made your jawsets to fit your blank, there can still be variables in the thickness of your blank that necessitate shaving down the sides of the jawsets.

    Step 2: Painting

    The base color of the gums are a combination of peach and pink. Too peachy, and they will look pale. Too much red can make gums look inflamed or infected. Any mistakes can be easily remedied with a cotton swab and nail polish remover. Be sure to save any extra paint in a small plastic zipper bag for any necessary touch-ups during the next few phases of the painting process.

    Wolf teeth have a purplish-brown mottling around the bases of the teeth. It's best to dab this on with small and somewhat dry, round-tipped brush with only the tiniest bit of paint so none of the marks are too "hard". Also, consider rotating your brush as you dab so the marks are not all the same. If you get too much saturation or hard edges on your dabs, take some of your base color from the previous stage and dab with that.
    Teeth staining is very important for realism. Real teeth are not pure white unless they've been bleached or cleaned. Instead, teeth usually have a yellowish-brown tinge. To accomplish this, I watered down the yellow-brown significantly, applied it to one tooth, then went behind it with a dry brush and wiped the color all over the tooth (this is called an acrylic wash). On to the next one, etc. until they are all slightly stained. Also, try to put more of the stain at the base, which is where tartar tends to collect.

    A comparison showing the stained uppers vs. the "pearly white" lowers. It's obvious which is more realistic.
    The completed stained teeth. Next, clear gloss acrylic sealer will be sprayed on the teeth. This not only protects the paint job, it lends a shiny coating to the teeth, making them look slightly wet and adding even more realism.

    Step 3: Acrylic Sealer

    Teeth after a couple coats of gloss. Note the "wet" look. After the gloss dries, they are ready for insertion into the mask.

    Written by Tara Andrus —

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